Day 1364: Navajo Museum

Our day began at the Navajo Interactive Museum in Tuba City.  What a humbling experience!  We're both historians who taught for many years.  We should have known more of the Navajo stories, but we didn't know much beyond the code talkers.  The inhumane, brutal and callous treatment of native Americans is widely known.  This museum recounted every massacre, displacement and livestock slaughter they endured.

It was painful just to read of the degradation and cruelty.  The Indian schools were especially horrific.  Children were taken from their parents and often never returned.  They were transported eastward to schools where they were forbidden to speak their own language.  Their hair was cut and their clothes were taken.  Many were sexually abused and beaten.

The Navajo code talkers were young men drafted to serve in WWII.  Although Navajo served in every theater of war, one group was selected for special service.  They developed an unbreakable code to be used in the Pacific.  Many credit their code with leading to the American victory against Japan.  None of them ever got a promotion beyond private despite their contributions.  After the war they were ordered not to reveal what they had done for twenty-six years!  Finally, the survivors were recognized as heroes.

Prejudice and cruelty run so deep in American society and history.  The conquerors always despise the vanquished.  Entire populations were seen as less than human, and some people continue that sentiment.  Why is there so little compassion and understanding for others who happen to be a little different?

The trip into Sedona was terrifying and spectacular at the same time.  Switchbacks all the way from 8000 feet down to 4000 feet.  Huge rock faces, towering Ponderosa pines, tumbling streams drew my attention, but Steve was riveted on the oncoming traffic and people who popped out suddenly.   No shoulders, no guard rails.  Motorcycles actually passed us on the curves!  When we got to the valley, he said that was it. He could not  do it again.

Sedona is gorgeous, but incredibly commercialized.  The center of town was jammed with people dashing between stores, galleries and restaurants.   We took refuge in the hotel pool till it cooled off.  With the temperature hovering around 100, our hiking will be very limited.  Tomorrow, we'll explore.